Dear Family and Friends,
Today is Thanksgiving. I hope you are all enjoying
this happy holiday in the company of friends, family
and loved ones. It's just 5:00 am here and after
writing this I'm headed to a beautiful place called
Semonkong where I'm meeting about 20 of my fellow
PCV's to celebrate the holiday. We're staying for the
whole weekend -- it promises to be a fun little
vacation.
Semonkong is one of the more developed tourist
areas in the country. There is a lodge there and the
area boasts the highest waterfall in southern Africa.
It is owned and operated by a very hospitable and
charming white South African couple and they have
even promised to have turkey for us. It is a bird
unknown in these parts.
Perhaps the best part of this trip is that I'm being
driven there! Ntate Toti our "mercy wagon" driver is
picking me up in about an hour. On the way we are
making a stop at the bank where he will get a small
business loan based on the business plan we've
developed. I'm hoping he becomes the most
successful taxi service in Lesotho -- he sure
deserves it. He is for sure the only one with a fully
developed business plan. I love this job!
Driving our poor and sick to the clinic is not an easy
task. This past Monday was typical. Ntate Toti's
only vehicle is a car so for the hospital trips he often
borrows a van from a friend. Something always goes
wrong!
This week he could only manage a pickup truck.
Three of our patients couldn't walk and had to be
carried from their huts to the truck. Our village is a
tough place to get around in. There are just steep
narrow paths between the homesteads. It took a
couple of hours to get the seven patients aboard.
One of our sangomas -- the biggest and strongest
one, Lefa, came along with me to get the patients
through the rather long process of seeing a doctor or
nurse. This is sad to say but having a white person
along, especially a Peace Corps volunteer, really
short cuts the process. I get extremely unfair but
pragmatically helpful preferential treatment. It still
takes all day. Our first stop is the clinic in a
neighboring village.
Two nurses run this small local medical facility. One
of them is registered -- the other is a wonderful but
marginally qualified woman. They both deserve the
Mother Theresa Award. There are always a hundred
or so people waiting. Nurse Zim and I have an
arrangement. She quickly sees our critical patients,
gives them a referral to the hospital then Toti and I
continue on to the hospital in Butha Buthe with them
while Sangoma Lefa stays with the others at the
clinic. Our slips from Nurse Zim guarantee that our
people will get in to see the one resident doctor at
the hospital.
Of this weeks patients, four have full blown AIDS,
two were suffering from extreme malnutrition simply
because they are too weak to care for themselves --
one of them is mentally challenged. One man, a
sweet little man of about 40, had had a stroke and
was paralyzed on his left side. I know that if these
people had been taken to an American hospital six of
the seven would have been admitted but here, with
the lack of facilities, they were all released to home
care. We're trying to set up a better home care
system in the village. Our Youth Committee may get
involved in a "meals on wheels" without the wheels,
of course, sort of food delivery service. Anyway
we're working on it. There is so much to do here.
Oh, just to continue with the "something always goes
wrong" theme, on our way home after picking up Lefa
and the clinic patients we were on the steepest part
of the track to the village when the truck simply
couldn't do it. We all piled out and helped push the
truck up the hill. Then the truck just quit! It was
something electrical. Lefa and Toti got under the
hood and miraculously fixed it! The rest of the ride
home was joyous, we sang, laughed and talked about
how lucky we are to have such brilliant mechanics
with us. Toti and Lefa were beaming.
You may think from my descriptions of the problems
here that this is a depressing place but it's really
not. The Basotho are such an up beat, happy lot.
There is always singing, laughing and telling good
stories going on. And, there is the natural beauty of
the place. The mountains are green now and the
valley below us is a patchwork of plowed and planted
fields.
The rains have been pretty good so far. We all have
our fingers crossed that this year is a good harvest.
We are approaching our summer months and it is
getting hot! Now this is really starting to feel like the
Africa I had expected. The temperature gets to 90
degrees even here in the mountains. But, as they
say in Arizona, it's a dry heat.
Did I tell you the Peace Corps finally let me get
horse? He's just wonderful, not the one I described
previously but another stallion from a neighboring
village. He's white with a black mane and tail. He is
the skinniest horse you can imagine. He looks like
the horse often pictured with Don Quixote. I'm trying
to decide what to name him. Does anyone know the
name of Don Quixote's horse? That would be perfect.
We're feeding him a lot. This horse thinks he's died
and gone to heaven. I'm thrilled with him. He is
gentle, does the famous Basotho Pony trippling gait
and will be a beautiful animal when he has gained a
few hundred pounds.
My life is so much easier now. I ride him to the
villages in which I teach and work. Usually some nice
villager will watch him for me and let him graze while I
teach or meet with elders. In fact, in the village of
Mate, which I often visit, the chief has assigned an
old man to be this horse's guardian whenever I am
there. Some villager will see me coming and put out
the call. By the time I arrive the man will be there,
take my horse, unbridle and unsaddle him and lead
him to the juiciest patches of grass. This is the
Lesotho answer to executive parking. This job has
some great perks!
On that happy note, I will wish you all a Happy
Thanksgiving. Of the countless things for which I'm
grateful you, my beloved friends and family, are right
at the top. Your love, kindness, generosity and
encouragement make me feel like the luckiest girl in
the world.
I really love you
guys.
Peggi